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Semana Santa (Holy Week)

La "bulla"

As sited in the Holy Week vocabulary list above, bulla refers to the agglomeration of people, who in this case gather round the processions, or the surrounding streets. The increase in crowds experienced during Holy Week in Seville has made this an inseparable phenomenon in this city. Locals and foreign visitors gather in closely knit masses in and around almost all of the brotherhoods. Nonetheless, la bulla reaches it highest levels of density in certain places. They include those highlighted places of a procession, especially during the departure and return of the floats. Also, in the surroundings of the Official Route, the Plaza del Duque y la Campana, or at the ending site, the Plaza de la Virgen de los Reyes, at the edge of the Cathedral.

There are certain areas which make up the "incomparable framework" along the pathways of certain cofradías. This is the case of for example, the Arco del Postigo, or on the most special days (Holy Thursday, Good Friday), places such as the Plaza de Alfafa or the Plaza del Salvador. In many cases these agglomerations (bullas) are not formed at the actual moment in which a procession passes, but during its entry or exist to mentioned points.

According to experts, la bulla differs from common crowds in that during this phenomenon certain norms of behavior are maintained. Usually, during the crowds of Holy Week people breath a certain ambience of behavior, understood amongst all, while rejecting any abrupt or selfish attitudes. Everyone in Seville complains about la bulla, but in the end accept that this is precisely just part of the spectacle; a sea of people where the processions appear to sail. Holy Week nowadays would be incomprehensible without masses of people who gather to stage this event.

However, fluid as it is, la bulla, can reach certain levels of high density in which it is difficult to enjoy the event. Thus it makes sense to attempt to avoid these obstructions.

Advise on how to navigate through la "bulla"

There is no danger being caught in such crowds. Some people who aren't familiar with this phenomenon may feel overwhelmed or in danger when stuck in one of these agglomerations and may get very nervous. Not to worry, as there is no recollection of anything significant ever happening in a bulla during Holy Week.

Refraining and good manners are an efficient safe-conduct if one is caught in one of these jams. Also, people in Seville during such a situation tend to be more tolerant with foreigners than with their fellow countrymen (and women).

Just the same it is best to avoid going the opposite direction and of course never cross through areas where there are large crowds (especially when a procession approaches). If ever found trapped in such a situation, most times its best to just hold on and be patient and wait until the crowd thins. If one wishes to catch a procession as it exits or enters a church, or along a narrow street or small plaza which is hard to access, try at least to get there with enough time.

Of course, if you're with children its best to watch a cofradía in open spaces, places with less crowds, allowing for the little ones to make the front row without any danger (soon they'll be imitating the local children by chanting, "nazareno, dame un caramelo!" (nazarine, toss me a candy!).

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